Tuesday, March 21, 2006

Making love not bombs

Morning all.

After a hectic start to my return trip to Varanasi, things are continuing to fly.

I've just moved to a new guesthouse, also with Tal, and I have a really nice room to myself. Double bed,. three windows, a view of the Varanasi rooftops and whole bunch of walls that I kinda feel like decorating.

My new band will be losing Tal very soon. He leaves for Nepal in a week. At present I don't feel like joining him. Varanasi fills me up. The Ganga has so much power. Really. Each day it is spilling will pilgrims diving in to cleanse themselves. And every day, us foreigners stare at them with wonder in our eyes. How on earth they manage to put themselves into this water - even brush their teeth with it - and live to see another day. You can see sewage being poured into it constantly, you can watch the dead bodies of humans and cows being chucked into it. Apparently it is one of the most polluted rivers in, I dunno, the world. I can understand why it is holy. But cleansing?

Just walking along the river and drinking chai with babas is a joy. Each night the pooja ceremony strikes a sublime note in us all. Thousands of people line up along the main ghat, spilling over the steps, placing small lighted candles and flowers into the river alongside the public spectacle of the graceful Hindu fire dance. I took a boat the other night with a girl, and watching the ceremony from the Ganga truly takes one's breath. It is romantic also, apparently.

Walking through the narrow confusing streets is becoming easier. I'm starting to tell the difference between all these streets the width of a moped, lined with silk shops, bustling with people and cows and chai. Where I live now there are many nice dhabas to eat thali and some good cheap tourist restaurants. I'm in a crazy, hot, busy city but it is possible to find peace. My room, I think, will be a nice haven.

The jams continue. I'm back in the mode, every night playing for hours until the early hours. Last night was particularly nice. On arriving at a guesthouse that is open 24 hours, I felt the excitement when we walked in. Word has got around. We cleared a space and made everyone shut up and listen for a few hours. It is almost becoming a matter of stamina for me now. How long I can keep playing for. The other day, we played til 5am and took a boat back to the guesthouse as the sun was rising.

Sometimes I feel I should maybe put the guitar down and go talk to a few of these gooey eyes, but really, small talk doesn't compare to the high I get from playing.

Yesterday I bumped into a good friend from Hampi (a full energy Israeli lady who teaches yoga). We missed each other in Kodaikanal but it was really good to see her. I can tell you straight up, it is a nice feeling to see a bunch of six attractive women, five of whom are strangers and have one of them come running up to you screaming "Danny! Danny! Danny! So good to see you!"

On sunday I had an affair with a really sweet girl who last night went to risk border problems in Nepal. I hear Nepal is in a particularly bad way at the moment. Maybe someone with more inclination to read world news (and I'm not talking about the bullshit national press, and certainly none of that brainless dribble off the telly) can fill me in. I was hoping to see Kathmandu at some point. It sounds full cool. Maybe after Varanasi. I just don't want to feel like an idiot if I get bombed, held hostage or unable to leave the country. Though having said that, Varanasi was bombed the other day.

What are all these fucking bombs? What ever happened to a good old fist fight?

Ok, I'm gonna go buy a big piece of paper and paint something for my walls. They look so sad.

Much love.

1 comment:

circletide said...

I believe Twain once wrote about how old Varanasi lookd, twice as old as history and tradition put together. Can it handle your neo-hippette blues skank and falsetto Dan?

It is very old.