Top of the world?

Since the last post, I have been quite busy. I played three solo nights of amplified music in Manali, one of which was recorded to be shown on a news channel on Indian national television. I was unable to watch the clip because by the time it was on TV, I was in Kibber, the highest village in the world with electricity (according to an Israeli with a Lonely Planet). They went to all the trouble of installing power, but decided that television was essentially the devil's work and has thus far chosen not to put one in. What to do. I'm sure I looked handsome and important. I can't imagine what the news story was: "Foreigners entertain other foreigners in tourist area of India". Wow, stop the press...

The twelve hour bus ride from Manali to Spiti valley was easily the most spectacular I've taken so far. I'm glad to have had the chance to see this scenery before I left. There I was thinking I'd seen mountains...

The hills from Manali, lush green and blanketing the white peaks of the Himalayas begin to fade as you head towards China. The landscape becomes barron desert type affair with enormous, sprawling brown mountains. Because myself and Effie felt it was a good idea to stay up all night the previous evening and watch arty films ('A Short Film About Love' and 'Baraka' - both great ) instead of getting an early night and being ready for the 5.30am bus, we had a bit of dozing to do on the bus.

I would slowly open my eyes and there would be a row of enormous waterfalls plunging from great heights towards the desert. Awesome. The road would often disappear and become pools of water and rocks. It was the most precarious road I've seen and a bit tough on the ass.

The leisurely bus driver allowed various stops to gather our thoughts and digestive systems. We all stopped at a Buddhist temple at the highest point in the valley (4,600 metres) to make a quick prayer and a snap. A few hours down the line, and a few stray mattresses from the roofrack on the bus, and we made it to Kibber. I've seen photos of Tibet, and basically it looks like Kibber. A small collection of simple white houses with black window frames, a couple of guesthouses (Israel connection, of course) and scenery scenery scenery! It's a bit like being on the moon. I'm sure you'll get to see the photos soon...

The temperature in Kibber was a bit confusing. Scorching and burning in the sun and requiring of full clothing in the shade. Plus a pretty constant dusty wind.

It also became clear that at 4,200 metres altitude, breathing becomes something of a luxury. The air is thin. Just walking up the stairs requires some heavy breathing and a rub down.

The guesthouse we found was a lovely little affair with some very kind and generous owners.

This morning, leaving Kibber, we visited a beautiful deserted Buddhist monestary a few kilometres down the road and sat in on morning meditation and salted tea breaks. Eugh...Then we hitched a Jeep ride to Kaza, with an excitable group of middle-aged female Buddhists. All before breakfast.

So, as I write, I am in Kaza, in a ridiculously expensive, market-cornered internet place. Kaza is a small smelly transport hub of a town and we are awaiting a bus to a couple more beautiful destinations before going back to Manali for a one last minute rockstar appearance and then Delhi for 45 degree action and then London for 30 odd degree action. Nice one.

There was a lot more to write today, but there's always more to write...more importantly there's more to SEE!

Time is running out...